3-D printing poised to shake up US manufacturing

3-D printing poised to shake up US manufacturing

Zach Kaplan isn't sitting tight for the computerized producing upheaval to light — he's kicking off it. 

Since President Obama sounded a clarion call three years prior for 3-D printing's "capability to reform the way we make nearly everything," this once in the past particular innovation has gone progressively standard. 

Three-dimensional printed items — like a lady's dress — are produced using ultra thin layers of plastic, metal or different materials, joined to make a 3-D object. They are turning up all over the place, from the prescription bureau to the working space to the runways of New York Design Week. 

Presently Kaplan is putting front line 3-D cutting tech under the control of youngsters, giving 50 machines from his organization Inventables to schools the nation over. 

The Rulers grounds of the United Countries Worldwide School got the machine in New York state. Understudies over the K-8 grounds, including fifth-graders cooking up dolls for a lesson on tall tales, are clamoring for a turn. 

"It opens up vocations that will create innovative answers for worldwide difficulties," said Kate McAdams, the school's configuration innovation educator. 

These children join the developing positions of New York understudies and workers at organizations vast and little energizing 3-D printing's sensational ascent. Expert Terry Wohlers assesses the business developed by 34 percent a year ago, to $5.5 billion around the world. In 2016, 3-D printing is balanced for a breakout year, when a quick new HP machine debuts. 

"To create footwear, eyeglasses, whatever, it must be quick like conventional assembling — [but] by far most of the present printers are much too moderate," said Wohlers. "HP could be a distinct advantage." 

New York City is home to MakerBot, which delivers 3-D printers, and Shapeways, an online commercial center for 3-D-printed items. Since opening a Rulers processing plant in 2012, Shapeways has multiplied both its workforce, to 160, and items transported month to month, to 120,000. 

The 3-D printing blast isn't sufficiently huge to without any assistance restore neighborhood producing, however it will offer assistance. 

"In the event that you offshore on account of the expense of difficult work, computerization decreases that inclination and permits you to bring it back," said Hod Lipson, educator of mechanical building at Columbia College. "It doesn't as a matter of course bring back [specific] employments, however brings back assembling."

Tags: printer

3-D printing poised to shake up US manufacturing

By YM Humidifier → 2016/04/04

Just Press Print

Just Press Print

As epoch-making as Gutenberg’s printing press, 3-D printing is changing the shape of the future.

Rocket engine parts, chocolate figurines, functional replica pistols, a Dutch canal house, designer sunglasses, a zippy two-seater car, a rowboat, a prototype bionic ear, pizzas—hardly a week goes by without a startling tour de force in the rapidly evolving technology of three-dimensional printing.

What sounds like something out of Star Trek—the starship’s replicator could synthesize anything—is increasingly becoming a reality. Indeed, NASA is testing a 3-D printer on the International Space Station to see if it might provide a way to fabricate meals, tools, and replacement parts on long missions.

Back on Earth, long-term business plans are being reimagined. Airbus envisions that by 2050 entire planes could be built of 3-D printed parts. GE is already using printers to make fuel-nozzle tips for jet engines. And interest isn’t limited just to corporate giants.

“We all know that 3-D printing is going to play a big role in the future,” says Hedwig Heinsman, one of the partners in the Dutch architectural firm DUS, which is printing a house on the banks of Amsterdam’s Buiksloter Canal.

Over three years a 20-foot-tall printer, the KamerMaker (Room Maker) will create walls, cornices, and rooms, trying out materials, designs, and concepts. “I can see a time coming where you will be able to choose and download house plans like you were buying something on iTunes, customize them with a few clicks on the keyboard to get just exactly what you want, then have a printer brought onto your site and fabricate the house,” adds Heinsman.

Additive manufacturing—as 3-D printing is also called—has been around for about 30 years. It’s the quick pace of advances that has created the recent buzz and inspired some grandiose predictions. But there is a huge and possibly unbridgeable gap between what can be made on highly sophisticated commercial 3-D printers and what you can make on a home printer. A 3-D printer works in much the same way as a desktop printer does. Instead of using ink, though, it “prints” in plastic, wax, resin, wood, concrete, gold, titanium, carbon fiber, chocolate—and even living tissue. The jets of a 3-D printer deposit materials layer by layer, as liquids, pastes, or powder. Some simply harden, while others are fused using heat or light.

The high cost of tooling up a factory has long been a barrier to developing niche products. But now anyone with an idea and money could go into small-scale manufacturing, using computer-aided design software to create a three-dimensional drawing of an object and letting a commercial 3-D printing firm do the rest.

Since a product’s specifications can be “retooled” at a keyboard, the technology is perfect for limited production runs, prototypes, or one-time creations—like the one-third-scale model of a 1964 Aston Martin DB5 that producers of the James Bond film Skyfall had printed, then blew up in a climactic scene.

And because a 3-D printer builds an object a bit at a time, placing material only where it needs to be, it can make geometrically complex objects that can’t be made by injecting material into molds—often at a considerable savings in weight with no loss in strength. It can also produce intricately shaped objects in a single piece, such as GE’s titanium fuel-nozzle tips, which otherwise would be made of at least 20 pieces.

This same precision is making it possible to fabricate things never before made. A team of Harvard University researchers has printed living tissue interlaced with blood vessels—a crucial step toward one day transplanting human organs printed from a patient’s own cells. “That’s the ultimate goal of 3-D bio-printing,” says Jennifer Lewis, who led the research. “We are many years away from achieving this goal.”

Additive manufacturing is much slower than traditional manufacturing, but that could change, says Hod Lipson, a professor at Cornell University long involved with 3-D printing.

“Printer speed, resolution, and the range of materials that can be printed are all being developed right now, along with printers that are capable of printing with multiple materials and creating objects with working parts and active circuitry,” Lipson says.

He and his team printed a replica of Samuel Morse’s telegraph. With a nod to history, they tested it by tapping out the message an awed Morse sent in 1844: “What hath God wrought?”

God may have wrought the principles, but people are pressing the buttons. In May 2013 a political activist named Cody Wilson grabbed headlines when he announced the test-firing of the world’s first 3-D printed handgun, the Liberator, a single-shot .38-caliber pistol made with $60 worth of plastic.

The news initially unnerved law-enforcement officials, who foresaw disposable, untraceable guns printed like term papers. But making a reliable gun is not simple—or cheap. When a California firm, Solid Concepts, printed a limited edition of a hundred Browning Model 1911 .45-caliber pistols, it did so with a printer and facilities that cost the better part of a million dollars.

“It’s simply a lot easier for crooks to get hold of a gun the old-fashioned way—buying them or stealing them—than to fuss over a 3-D printer for a couple of days, only to end up with a warped plastic blob or, even worse, something that blows up in their hands,” says Jonathan Rowley, design director of Digits2Widgets, a London 3-D printing firm that made the parts of a nonworking version of Wilson’s gun for the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Few people will be crushed by not being able to print a Saturday night special, but many may be disappointed with the misshapen trinkets that are the typical fare. “People read about the fabulous things that are being made with 3-D printing technology, and they are led to believe that they will be able to make these things themselves at home and that what they turn out will be of a really high standard of workmanship,” Rowley says. “It won’t be.”

While consumer printers may one day allow us to make whatever we like, Rowley envisions a different grassroots revolution, one where people can test ideas that once would never have made it off the back of an envelope.

Tags: printer → science

Just Press Print

By YM Humidifier →

Introduction to 3D Animation

Introduction to 3D Animation

Wanna be a 3D Animator?

Good 3D animators are the most highly sought-after artist in the world of 3D. There's a reason for this: good animation is hard. Which is not to say that animation is hard to learn, but rather that making animation that is believable and entertaining requires a lot of skill and practice. Most people who become 3D artists rarely venture beyond modeling, and their forays into animation are inexpert at best, and cringe-worthy or unwatchable at worst. 

This is because animation requires a completely different skillset than 3D modeling. In fact, these two aspects of 3D art are so different that 3D modelers are rarely animators, and animators can rarely model. Established studios usually hire dedicated animators to do the bulk of the animation. Modelers, if they have any input into the animation process at all, usually stick with rigging. 

What you should take away is not that it's impossible to be a good modeler and animator, but that these two subsets of 3D art require different ways of thinking and usually do not share techniques. 

The Basics of 3D Animation

Animation in 3D applications usually happens in two primary ways. In major productions, both may be used. 

1. Keyframe animation - Keyframe animation, or keyframing, is the most well-known and oldest style of animation. In fact, there are examples of frame-by-frame animation dating all the way back to 1600 B.C. Egypt! Modern keyframing techniques date back to the early cartoons created by animation pioneers like Winsor McCay and Walt Disney. What may surprise you is that keyframing techniques have not changed much since the early 1900's - most of the basic principles still apply today. What has changed is that 3D software packages have made keyframing much easier to accomplish, meaning a broader scope of artists can learn how to animate. 

Keyframing is essentially changing the shape, position, spacing, or timing of an object in successive frames, with major changes to the object being the key frames. In traditional 2D animation, each frame is usually drawn by hand. When frames are shown in succession, as in a movie, the slight differences in each frame of animation create the illusion of motion. 3D software packages make keyframe animation easier by interpolating, or "tweening," the in-between frames. When animating a falling ball, for example, one key frame might be of the ball in mid-air, the next key frame may be the ball touching the ground, and the key frame after that would be the ball squishing down as the impact deforms its shape. All of the in-between frames are then calculated by the software automatically, including the squish at the bottom, making actual process of animation a matter of creating a few great key frames. 

2. Motion capture - Motion capture, or mocap, was first used sparingly due to the limitations of the technology, but is seeing increased acceptance in everything from video game animation to CG effects in movies as the technique matures. Whereas keyframing is a precise, but slow animation method, motion capture offers an immediacy not found in traditional animation techniques. Mocap subjects, usually actors, are placed in a special suit containing sensors that record the motion of their limbs as they move. The data is then linked to the rig of a 3D character and translated into animation by the 3D software. 

There are a couple downsides to motion capture which make it difficult for beginning 3D animators to learn. Firstly is the cost of mocap technology, which can run several thousands or even tens of thousands of dollars. This means that most new 3D artists must learn to incorporate this animation style by importing mocap data into a project from a commercially available mocap library. 

The other downside to mocap is that the end-result is often far from perfect; mocap animation usually requires clean-up from keyframe artists to make it look more realistic, especially if the character being animated does not have an anatomy or proportions similar to those of a human. 

Learning 3D Animation

Animators must have a keen understanding of motion, movement, and acting. It may surprise you that the best animators take acting lessons - this helps them understand how their own body moves, and makes it easier to transfer that understanding into believable animation. 

Keen observation may be the most important skill to develop as an animator. Observe life around you, and how things move. Make sketches, take notes, and try to give meaning to what you observe. Don't study just animation. Learn from film, theatre, and even comic books to understand how poses and movement create moods and nonverbally communicate messages. New animators would do well to learn from the old masters of 20th century animation - Walt Disney, Art Babbitt, Grim Natwick, and Ken Anderson. The principles used to bring characters like Mickey Mouse and Bugs Bunny to life are still as relevant today as they were back then. Indeed, the first place a new 3D animator should look is to the old animation manuals of 2D artists. Consider picking up "The Animator's Survival Kit" by Richard Williams from your local book dealer. While written as a book about hand-drawn animation, it contains everything you'll need to know about good animation techniques in the 3D world. 

The beginning 3D animator will want to focus on basic objects first: how to make a ball move from one place to another, and how to make it bounce. Later, as you explore character animation, you'll need to understand what makes a good walk cycle, and how to cut down on "float," a common problem for new animators where the character moves as if underwater. The software used is not important, at least in the beginning, as animation packages all have the same basic features. 

3D animators must also have a good grasp of how models are rigged for animation, especially character animators. The "bones" used in a rig must be placed in a way similar to that of a living creature. Animators must also learn how to use inverse kinematic (IK) setups for their character rigs to reduce the amount of time spent keyframing. 

Above all else, animators must practice their craft. Like modeling, animation requires time to learn, and even more time to master. Even experienced animators may create dozens, or even hundreds of test movies before getting a good final result. A good animator can make an average model come to life, while even the best model can be made to look amateurish by a poor animator. Persistence will pay off, as a skilled animator can very well be the most important team member to a production.

Tags: how → science

Introduction to 3D Animation

By YM Humidifier →

Nervous System’s Latest 4D Printed Dress Twirls into the Museum of Fine Arts

Nervous System’s Latest 4D Printed Dress Twirls into the Museum of Fine Arts

3D printing design studio Nervous System made an important breakthrough in 4D printing in 2014 when they revealed the Kinematics Dress, subsequently purchased by MoMa in New York, as a part of its permanent collection. Not one to be left behind, the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston (MFA) commissioned the pioneering firm to 4D print yet another dress for their upcoming #techstyle exhibition running from March 6 through July 10, 2016.

The original Kinematics Dress was an important achievement because it demonstrated the ability to fabricate an object that, when removed from the print bed, changed its shape, making it a dynamic object.  As a 3D printed garment, the dress was also much more fluid and flexible than the clothing printed so far due to the individual links that made up the piece.  In other words, it more closely resembled the attire we’re used to wearing.  And because the dress was produced on demand, it shows off the possibility of tailoring the piece to the wearer through 3D scanning and design before printing takes place.  Then, when it’s made, it’s simply pulled out of the printbed, all in one piece and without any assembly required.

The new Kinematic Petals Dress to be debuted at MFA advances the project in numerous ways and brings new design elements to it, as well. Made up of petals layering out of an undergrowth of triangular panels, the dress was also 3D printed from nylon with selective laser sintering. Altogether the Petals Dress consists of over 1600 unique pieces connected with over 2600 hinges.  As with the previous Kinematic dress, this one pops out of the printbed fully assembled and, as it unfurls, it is even larger than the printer itself.

In crafting the design, Nervous System has created eight different Kinematic dresses, prototyping them on their Form 2 3D printer.  While doing so, the studio also worked on improving its Kinematics Clothing design app to control the length, width, height, and direction of each individual shell separately from the rest. Because the petals did not fold in the same way as the elements in the previous piece did, Nervous System developed a new algorithm for compressing the dresses.  Instead of digitally folding them, they digitally rolled them.  Though the overlapping petals may have caused them to rethink one issue, it also gave them the ability to incorporate hidden snap connections for the ability to break dresses down into reconfigurable garments: from a dress into a top and skirt.

The studio goes into even more detail about this latest project on their blog, including a number of videos and pictures we can’t fit right here.  But if you happen to be in Boston from March 6 through July 10, you’ll be able to learn even more by seeing the dress in person.  You can also pick up your own piece of Kinematic printing in the form of Nervous System’s latest jewelry collection, Kinematic Petals.

The collection is available for purchase at the studio’s online shop and will also be sold at the MFA Bookstore and Shop.  Until you get your own Kinematic Petals dress, these individual pieces will help you achieve a similarly organic look.  Nervous System’s Jessica Rosenkrantz writes, “The collection includes necklaces, earrings and bracelets covered in a directional landscape of overlapping, petal-like forms. While each element of the jewelry is rigid, in aggregate they behave as a continuous fabric which molds to the body’s contours.”

Tags: how → printer → science

Nervous System’s Latest 4D Printed Dress Twirls into the Museum of Fine Arts

By YM Humidifier →

e-NABLE & Simplify3D Restore Kid’s Confidence with 3D Printed Prosthetic

e-NABLE & Simplify3D Restore Kid’s Confidence with 3D Printed Prosthetic

When it comes to providing 3D printed prosthetics to kids in need, no one does it better than the volunteer organization e-NABLE. Last August, one father and an avid member of the e-NABLE organization, named Greg Dennison, printed five prosthetic hand designs for his eight-year-old son Luke Dennison (aka Little Cool Hand Luke), who was born without his left hand due to a congenital abnormality. Now, Dennison and e-NABLE are teaming up with Simplify3D, the 3D printing software developers, to help create a superhero-themed prothetic hand for another kid with the same condition as Luke.

Recently, one Cincinnati Hills Christian Academy fourth-grader, Peyton Andry, and his family were connected with Dennison through a mutual friend from Simplify3D. Around the same time, but coincidentally, Peyton’s music teacher had approached e-NABLE about creating a prosthetic device for her young student. And so, almost by fate it seems, Peyton and Little Cool Hand Luke had finally met, sharing both the same condition, and now, 3D printed prosthetic hands. The two kids also had a lot of other interests in common, and discussed Star Wars and 3D printing, while Peyton got to see a 3D printer in action for the very first time.

“The opportunity to be involved with organizations such as e-NABLE and help people like Luke and Peyton is inspiring,” said Clayton Webster, CEO of Simplify3D. “3D printing empowers innovation through technology, but what is magical to me is the outcome that was created by a community working collaboratively to develop a solution and help others.”

And so, with Peyton’s newfound fascination and approval in tow, Dennison and the Simplify3D team met to design and 3D print him a prosthetic hand. After selecting his favorite superhero colors, which were reminiscent of Iron Man, the Simplify3D team set out to print the prosthetic hand. The prosthetic device was 3D printed in 30 separate components on multiple 3D printers, and was fitted onto Peyton last February.

“When I woke up that morning, I was thinking about it a lot and I was really excited,” Peyton said. “But it’s not just the people who get the hands who are excited, it’s also the people who make the hands because they’re making something for people who need it.”

All in all, the project involved a handful of volunteers to help Peyton feel more confident and powerful about his condition, including Greg Dennison, Peyton’s teachers, and employees from Simplify3D. With the 3D printed prosthetic hand, Peyton is now more easily able to grasp items, catch balls, carry objects, and all together feel better about the condition that Peyton calls special, rather than different. Now, along with his new friend Little Cool Hand Luke, Peyton can focus on what they are able to accomplish as young superheroe, instead of what his physical limitations were.

It is clear that the hand means so much more to Peyton than his new physical abilities,” said Steve Andry, Peyton’s father. “The hand produced a sense of confidence and purpose. He gets to be seen more for his character, personality and heart, not for what he may be missing.”

Tags: science

e-NABLE & Simplify3D Restore Kid’s Confidence with 3D Printed Prosthetic

By YM Humidifier →

The Top 10 3D Printers Under $1,000

The Top 10 3D Printers Under $1,000

With the Buccaneer finally hitting the market at well above $800, the Makibox disappearing from the radar and the SUMPODs sold out, it seems that the perfect low-cost 3D printer is still far away from reality. Many feel that a price point below $500 would let the market gather up consumer enthusiasm. That may be, but, I wasn’t even entirely sure that there were a significant number of acceptable sub-$1,000 3D printers actually on the market (which excludes recent crowdfunding campaigns like the TIKO3D or the MOD-t). So, I embarked on a search. The result is my list of 10 truly sub-$1,000 3D printers (and that includes tax and shipping & handling). Note: I’ve calculated shipping to my own address in Italy.  As for Italian printers, I’ve calculated shipping to NYC.

• QB-3D One Up Classic: $199

This list is in no particular order, but, I felt that the company to start with had to be QB-3D, since they make one of the few sub-$500 3D printers that I know of. It is in stock and ships anywhere. The most basic model, the QB-3D One costs $200, with $87 S&H. You may have to factor in local taxes at customs, but the final total cannot possibly amount to more than $350. If you want a color other than black, though, the price is $100 more.

• UP3D UP Mini: $599

If you are looking for guaranteed quality in a small 3D printer than UP3D has been offering that for quite some time. The newer, consumer-targeted and lower-priced UP Mini only costs $599 and it is a reliable system with an established company behind it. Unfortunately, you might have to factor in as much as $300 for international shipping. And don’t forget to add taxes.

• Printrbot Play: $399

When I think of a low-cost, reliable 3D printers this is the first that comes to mind. I have never actually tried one but I have heard of several satisfied consumers. Printrbot has become a synonym for quality, low-cost products and, with a build volume of 4″x4″x5″, Printrbot Play can be considered one of the most portable systems around. The Play features the company’s new Alu Extruder v2, a powder-coated steel and aluminum body, and a micro SD card for untethered printing.

• XYZprinting da Vinci Jr.: $349

At $349 through Amazon, the da Vinci Jr. is the lowest priced 3D printer from Taiwanese manufacturer XYZprinting. While its older, but still sub-$1,000 predecessors are, along with the Robo3D, the only large-sized, low-cost 3D printers that I know of, the Jr. sacrifices such features as a heated bed and larger build volume for ease-of-use and price. The Taiwanese company is selling a lot of their printers, in many cases through some of the largest online retailers in the world. All of the users I have spoken with are satisfied with the products, but, of course, there is a catch: these printers have been built to use the company’s own consumables, which cost more than generic filaments. The second catch is that, if you order it form Amazon, you might pay as much as $218 in S&H.  For a full review of the da Vinci Jr. from 3DPI, click here.

• Sharebot Kiwi 3-D: $696

While it may have passed somewhat under the radar, the Kiwi-3D by Sharebot is probably the least expensive, fully-assembled 3D printer from Europe, with almost no models coming even close. It is a small 3D printer with no frills and no particular thrills, but it works just fine; the build volume is comparable to the MakerBot Mini; and it can rely on a well-established company to provide support. It comes in at $696, but you may have to factor in as much as $150 for international shipping.

• Wanhao Duplicator i3: $429

Wanhao USA made a name for itself by producing the Duplicator, which, as the name entails, is pretty much a duplicate of the Replicator. Looks aside, the 3D printer works fine and can count on many satisfied customers. The company has thus embarked on a new open source project by duplicating the Prusa i3 architecture and developing its own Duplicator i3, which comes assembled at only $429. It may be initially difficult to find a place to purchase a Wanhao 3D Printer outside of the US, but, so far, one company, Futur3D in Italy, has alerted us to their sale of the machine abroad. In fact distributor 3D Prima also contacted us to tell us that they are among the largest resellers of Wanhao 3D printers in Europe. Which makes plenty of sense since, in fact, their logo is on the 3D printer in the photo.

• Solidoodle Press: $699

Much like UP and Printrbot, US-based Solidoodle also developed a lower cost, easier access 3D printer it named the Solidoodle Press. Fully enclosed, it is one of the more aesthetically pleasing, low-cost machines, running at only $699, with an additional $101 for shipping to Europe. The final price is still well below $1,000.

• Robo3D R1: $799

One approach to selling a low cost machine is that of progressively lowering the cost of the first models to hit the market. And that is what Robo3D has done, making its R1 3D printer available for as low as $799 (to which you will need to add close to $200 for intentional S&H). This is not a small system though; it has a 10”x9”x8” build volume, reaches 100 micron resolution, and heats up to 290°C in the metal hot end. Once again, you will be able to count on the support of a company that has been around for some time already and you are free to use any filament you want.

• FlashForge Creator II Single Extruder: $877

With operations both in Asia and in North America, Flash Forge is considered one of the best manufacturers of low-cost 3D printers. Its line up does not, however, include a small-sized machine, so, if you want to save as much as possible, you have to go with the the FlashForge Creator II Single Extruder system, which is a wooden, fully-assembled machine selling for $877. The good news is that international S&H is surprisingly low, as little as $42. The bad news is that VAT on $877 could run you more than $150.

• FABtotum Personal Fabricator: $1,049

The FABtotum Personal Fabricator is the most expensive 3D printer in our list, but the reason why we’ve decided to include it is that, for what it does, it is priced incredibly low: this is a multi-function system that can 3D print as well as 3D scan and CNC mill both metal and wood, carrying out all functions with high-quality results. If you consider the fact that you are getting three systems for the price of one, you could say you are only purchasing the 3D printer for less than $500. There is one more catch: the price is discounted, as FABtotum is currently taking pre-orders. The full price will go up to $1,299.

Of course, this list won’t be complete as new low-cost 3D printers reach the market.  We still have to wait for the Micro3D to leave pre-order status and new machines to successfully pull of their crowdfunding campaigns.  And, hopefully, next time we write up this list, we’ll see even more printers fall closer to that sub-$500 mark.

Tags: printer

The Top 10 3D Printers Under $1,000

By YM Humidifier →

What is 3D?

What is 3D?

3D means three-dimensional, i.e. something that has width, height and depth (length). Our physical environment is three-dimensional and we move around in 3D every day.

xyz graph

Humans are able to perceive the spatial relationship between objects just by looking at them because we have 3D perception, also known as depth perception. As we look around, the retina in each eye forms a two-dimensional image of our surroundings and our brain processes these two images into a 3D visual experience.

However it's important to note that having vision in both eyes (stereoscopic or binocular vision) is not the only way to see in 3D. People who can only see with one eye (monocular vision) can still perceive the world in 3D, and may even be unaware that they are stereo blind. They are simply missing one of the tools to see in 3D, so they rely on others without thinking about it.

Here are some of the tools humans use for depth perception:

• Stereoscopic vision: Two eyes provide slightly separate images; closer objects appear more separated than distant ones.
• Accommodation: As you focus on a close or distant object, the lenses in your eyes physically change shape, providing a clue as to how far away the object is.
• Parallax: As your head moves from side to side, closer objects appear to move more than distant ones.
• Size familiarity: If you know the approximate size of an object, you can tell approximately how far away it is based on how big it looks. Similarly, if you know that two objects are a similar size to each other but one appears larger than the other, you will assume the larger object is closer.
• Aerial perspective: Because light is scattered randomly by air, distant objects appear to have less contrast than nearby objects. Distant objects also appear less color-saturated and have a slight color tinge similar to the background (usually blue).

In order to represent the 3D world on a flat (2D) surface such as a display screen, it's desirable to simulate as many of these perception tools as possible. Although there is currently no way to simulate all of them at the same time, video does use a combination. For example, aerial perspective and size familiarity are automatically captured by the video camera. In CGI scenes, aerial perspective must be added so that distant objects appear less clearly (this is called distance fog).

Of course the addition of stereoscopic images (a separate image for each eye) is a significant improvement—so much so that most people think of stereoscopic films as being 3D, and all others as being 2D.

2D Film & Video

A traditional 2-D video image has width and height but technically it has no depth, i.e. everything in the image is presented at the same distance from the viewer. Still, the viewer does perceive the image as three-dimensional by subconsciously using the techniques listed above—much the same as how stereo-blind people perceive the real world.

3D Film & Video

3D video adds stereoscopic vision, meaning that two separate images are shown simultaneously—one to each eye. This presents enormous technical problems which is why there is still no perfect system almost 100 years since the first 3D movie was made.

Common display methods include:

• Anaglyphic processing (red/cyan glasses): The original 3D system, now largely out of favor.
• Polarized light system (polarized filter glasses): The most common new system for cinemas.
• Active shutter system (LCD shutter glasses): The most likely standard for the first generation of 3D televisions and other displays.

Tags: science

What is 3D?

By YM Humidifier →

How to Make a 3D Paper Snowflake

How to Make a 3D Paper Snowflake

Three dimensional paper snowflakes look beautiful hanging in a window or on a wall. Fun for kids or adults, they are easy to make. Some like them for Christmas, but you may like them any time!

Steps

1. Gather materials. You'll need six (or eight for a fuller snowflake) pieces of paper (white copy paper will do, although you can use more elaborate types like construction or origami paper), scissors, clear tape and a stapler.
2. Fold each of the six pieces of paper in half, then diagonally. If the paper you are using does not make a perfect triangle, cut off the rectangular edge that sticks out and make it align perfectly. You should end up with a square folded into a triangle. Fold the triangle in half, noting where the folded "bottom" of the triangle is. If you have to cut off the bottom end of the paper, keep it and put it aside.
3. Cut three slits in the triangle. Position the scissors along the bottom fold, and parallel to one of the edges going up to the top (your cuts should be somewhat diagonal). Cut almost all the way up to the double folded crease, but not quite. Keep about the same distance between each cut. (This might not be suitable for thicker paper, since the number of layers makes it difficult to cut through.) When you unfold the triangle into a larger triangle, it should look like the photo at right.
4. Unfold the triangle again. Turn it so that one of the points of the square faces you. It should look like the picture.
5. Keeping your paper diamond side-up, roll the first two innermost paper lines together to form a tube. Tape these two pieces together. You should see triangle shapes on each side of the roll.
6. Turn the diamond over to the other side. Take the next two paper lines and pull them together on the opposite side of the tube and tape together as before. This will be a more rounded shape and wider than the first tube.
7. Keep turning the paper and joining the paper lines together on opposite side in the same fashion until all paper lines have been joined.
8. Repeat Steps 2 - 7 with the remaining 5 pieces of paper.
9. Join 3 of the completed rolled pieces together at one end and staple together using the other hand. Do the other 3 pieces the same way. Now you will have 2 pieces consisting of 3 strands or "arms" each. (For smaller snowflakes, it may be easier to use double-sided tape or white glue in place of staples.)
10. Staple the two new pieces together in the middle.
11. Staple where each of the six arms meet. This ensures that the snowflake shape is pulled into place. See picture at top for the finished snowflake.
12. Hang them up, use them to make a center piece or use them to decorate in your own way as long as they can be admired.

Questions and Answers:

How big should I cut the squares of paper?

• The larger they are, the easier it will be to work with them. Go for at least 6 inches (15 cm) on each side for best results.

Does the paper have to be square?

• Yes, but it's easy to turn a rectangular sheet of paper into a square. Fold one corner over to the opposite side, lining up the edges to form a triangle. Cut off the "leftover" rectangle below the triangle. Unfold the triangle, and you have a square.

Can you use more than six pieces of paper? And can you use different types of paper?

• You can use as many pieces of paper as you can fit together. Even numbers (6, 8, 10) look best because the snowflake is symmetric. You can mix and match different paper colors, but stick to the same type (printer, construction, origami) to avoid lopsided snowflakes.

What is the best way to preserve these giant snowflakes?

• A clear spray-on lacquer or finish could work. Keep the snowflakes out of direct sun, or pick a finish that includes UV protection.

Can I use tape instead of a stapler?

• Yes, although the snowflake might not be as sturdy. Wrap the tape around tightly when joining the pieces together.

Tips

• You can also place these snowflakes on lollipop sticks to make a pinwheel.
• Adding a 7th side to the snowflake will give it a fuller and completed look.
• See "Sources and Citations" below for 2-dimensional snowflake patterns suitable for younger kids (and the impatient).
• Work slow and steady. Rushing is likely to lead to a ruined snowflake, or your hands being cut up by scissors.
• If you want a "perfect" snowflake, make sure the lines you cut are identical for each square.
• If you want larger snowflakes, use larger paper. You will probably need to cut more lines though; work it out from how large your piece of paper is. Don't try enlarging your snowflakes until you are comfortable with the method of making them with the suggested paper size first.
• It's best to use 6 pieces of paper instead of more. Seven can make it look a bit too packed and it's harder to see the shape of the flake.
• You can vary the paper color if you want to match a Christmas color theme - red or green for instance. Those left over bits of holiday wrapping paper also work very well - just keep in mind that one side of the paper will be plain white while the other side will be colorful. You can also use tinfoil or glitter paper.
• Make sure these pieces of paper are evenly cut or it will not look very good when finished.
• If you want a more appealing look use glue dots, or glue sticks. Find these at arts/ crafts stores.
• Mini staplers are great for these type of snowflakes.
• For those who are making a smaller snowflake, it's easier to use a toothpick.
• If you want to "jazz up" your snowflakes, put liquid glitter on the snowflake along various parts of the paper lines. Just remember though, that these do not store very well (easily crushed) and you might be throwing them out.
• 
  

Warnings

• Don't use any kind of hot glue if you are making this; it may burn or rip the paper.

Things You'll Need

• Six pieces of paper, any kind should do. The size of your paper square can vary from 4" to 10" (10cm - 25cm). The paper should be of a good strength to hold up the snowflake structure.
• Scissors
• Tape (Or Glue)
• Stapler (a mini stapler is great for smaller snowflakes).

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How to Make a 3D Paper Snowflake

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How to Make a 3D Television

How to Make a 3D Television

Would you like to create 3d (stereo vision) television using any video camera and TV? You can create this neat effect. 3d television will impress your friends and relatives and can also make a great hook for clients or business partners.

Steps

1. Cut the wood to about 20 centimeter (7.9 in) long.
2. Place a mark halfway (the center).
3. Place 2 of the mirrors at 90 degrees to each other in the center lump of glue tack (inner mirrors).
4. Place the other 2 mirrors parallel to the center 2 about 3 centimeter (1.2 in) away. (outer mirrors).
5. Place the piece of wood with the mirrors on it in front of the camera lens so that the center of the the piece of wood lines up with the center of the lens.
6. While viewing the viewfinder, adjust the outer mirrors so they reflect the same thing on the two side of the viewfinder and you should see two images on the viewfinder next to each other.
7. Record for a few minutes {try to record some action that involves hand action like juggling or clapping so that there is movement in 3 directions, X Y AND Z
8. You will need to use the same setup of the 4 mirror to view the playback on your TV so move the piece of wood to in front of the TV.
9. Rest it on something so you can sit behind the mirrors while playing the recorded images place your nose up to the inner mirrors so each of your eyes is looking into a different mirror.
10. Adjust the outer mirrors so your right eye is looking at the right side of the tv and the left to the left.
11. You should see 1 image of your recording in 3d (good luck)

• 3dtv mirror mount prototype 2
• 3dtv image

Tips

• You may need to secure the mirrors better than with glue tack
• Adjusting all the mirrors is a bit tricky, so only move the mirrors slowly and try to keep them straight up and down, only rotate them side to side
• If you like what you see build a better mirror mount

Warnings

• Be careful with the mirrors as they could break and cause a hazard.

Things You'll Need

• Video camera
• TV
• 4 mirrors about 30 centimeter (11.8 in) by 50 centimeter (19.7 in)
• A piece of wood
• 4 lumps of glue tack
• Tripod if you have one for the camera
• Something to place the wood on at the same level as the camera lens

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How to Make a 3D Television

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How to Make a 3D Hologram

How to Make a 3D Hologram

It's easier to make a 3D hologram than you think. In fact, each year thousands of hobbyists, students, and teachers make holograms at home and school. To make a hologram, you'll need some basic holography supplies and household items (budget about $100), a quiet and dark room, and about 30 minutes.

This article teaches you how to make holograms, as technically defined and explained by the majority of holography books, experts, scientists, Wikipedia, and Merriam-Webster dictionary. This method is taught in schools and universities in physics and optics courses today.

Steps

1. Gather your holography supplies and household materials listed in the "Things You'll Need" section below.

2. Define your laboratory space. Choose a sturdy table or counter in a dark room that is free of noise, vibration, air currents, and small movements (creaky floors, etc.). If you don't have a sturdy table, a concrete basement floor works well.

3. Prepare the subject of your hologram. Place the subject securely on the sturdy table. If you have a computer mouse pad or tray of sand, place the subject on top of that. This helps minimize any vibrations.

4. Prepare your diode laser (or laser pointer). Place it about 30 centimeter (11.8 in) away the subject by bracing it with a clothespin (UK clothes peg) and then sticking the clothespin into a cup of salt or sugar.

• If your diode laser has an adjustable lens, take off that lens and position the laser so that its beam spreads out horizontally in an elliptical shape (it looks similar to that of a loaf of bread).
• If your laser doesn't have an adjustable lens, secure an optical diverging lens to another clothespin and cup of salt so that the laser beam shines through it to spread the light.

5. Position the laser until the subject is fully illuminated.

6. Turn off all lights. You can use a nightlight placed under the table or even slightly crack open the door to see in the darkened room. Block any direct light from reaching the holography system. The room should be dark enough that one cannot read.

7. Block the laser light from reaching the subject with a book. The book will serve like a shutter of a camera.

8. Remove one holographic film plate from its box in the darkest part of the room. Carefully lean it against the object. Wait 10-20 seconds to let the plate settle against the object.

9. Slowly lift the “shutter” slightly off the table a half inch (1cm) while still blocking the laser light from reaching any part of the plate, and wait a few seconds for any vibration to subside.

10. Lift the shutter all the way up to expose the holographic plate and object for about 10 seconds.

11. Block the laser light again by placing the book back on the table.

12. Process the plate according to instructions that accompany the holography processing kit. This process takes about 3-5 minutes total. For making basic holograms, the process of developing is actually quite simple:

• Mix the dried powder photochemicals with distilled bottle water to form two solutions: the developer and the bleach
• Dip and wiggle plate in developer for 20 seconds
• Rinse in water for 30 seconds
• Dip and wiggle plate in bleach for 20 seconds
• Rinse in water for 30 seconds
• Dry with hair dryer

The dried chemical powder photochemicals can be individually put together by going to a photochemist, but is more expensive since only 1 gram of several chemicals is needed, and few photochemists sell in such small amounts. The JD-4 kit recommended in this article puts all the chemicals into a kit and is happens to be the only such kit available. It is preferred by beginners.

13. Dry the holographic plate vertically. A simple way to do this is by placing the plate on a paper towel and lean it against a wall. If time is limited, you can carefully blow warm air across the holographic plate using a hair dryer from at least foot (30cm) away. Avoid high heat.

14. View your hologram after it is completely dried with a point source such as that from a projector, flashlight, spotlight, LED white light, or the sun. Shine the spotlight from the same angle your laser beam shone on the plate during exposure. You can't use diffused light sources such as frosted bulbs and fluorescent lamps.

Tips

• Realize that vibrations and microscopic movement of even 1 millionth of a meter can ruin a hologram. So, during exposure, try to be still and maintain absolute silence. Also, turn off your venting system and avoid cross drafts.
• Don't be impatient and don't try to rush the drying process.
• If you are unsure if your surface is free of vibrations or not place a clear plastic bottle of water on your surface, and shine a form of light through the bottle so that the top 'layer ' of water is reflected onto a near-by surface. Let the reflection 'settle'. You can now see what level of movement is vibrating the surface as this will be indicated in the reflection of the water. This method is incredibly precise as it can measure even the smallest changes in the air around the bottle.
• Note that not all lasers or laser pointers can be used to make holograms. It's best to choose a laser that has been pre-tested for meeting the required specifications (coherence length, stability, polarization, and power). For the instructions above and recommended materials below, the red Integraf holography diode laser with an adjustable lens was assumed.

Warnings

• Carefully read and follow all instructions for using your laser. Never look directly into any laser beam.
• Make sure to read thoroughly and follow all instructions and warnings that come with the processing kit. In their diluted solution form the chemicals are generally more inert than most household cleaners. But, in their dry concentrated form, they can be toxic. Adult supervision is highly recommended.

Things You'll Need

Holography Supplies

• Note: Budget is around $100 to about $500
• PFG-03M professional holographic film plates
• Red holography laser. The instructions above assume the use of the Integraf Holography Laser (4mW, 650nm), because it has an adjustable lens. If your laser does not have adjustable lens, you'll need to get an external lens (beam spreader).
• JD-4 Holography Processing Kit
• PhotoFlo wetting agent (optional)

 Household Materials

• A bright hard object, preferably sturdy metal, i.e. coins, metal toy car (to be the subject of your hologram)
• One flat hardcover book 6”x8” (150x200mm) or larger (to serve as a shutter).
• Six 1-liter bottles (1.5 gallons) of distilled water (to prepare the processing chemicals)
• Three small trays with flat bottoms 3”x3” or larger (to serve as developer trays)
• Three large trays (or bowls) with flat bottoms 4in.x5in. or preferably larger (to serve as rinse trays)
• One rubber kitchen glove or tongs (to handle the holographic plate while developing)

 Optional

• A basic nightlight available at your supermarket or green safelight (to conveniently see in the dark room)
• A computer mouse pad or a tray of sand (or salt or sugar) with width, length, and height of very roughly 6”x8”x2” (15x20x5cm) or larger (to serve as a vibration isolation system)
• A small cup filled with sand (to hold the laser)—salt or sugar also works

Tags: hologram → how → science

How to Make a 3D Hologram

By YM Humidifier →